Approach

All below beta from route developers...

From the eagles’ nest pull out above Medicine Lake, walk 25 meters south along the road, then up the gravelly bank towards the washout/drainage. Walk a short distance up the rocky drainage before crossing to the left and hiking up a hip that ascends to the climber’s left of the drainage. Once above tree line, cross the drainage to the right, then ascend toward the massive right-facing corner. In most years, a large snow patch lingers at the bottom of the corner throughout the summer. Gear up, then walk behind the snow patch from the climber’s right to begin the route. 1hr.

Pitch Details

P1: (40m, 5.8) Approach the corner from the climbers right, clipping a bolt on the left-trending ramp. Continue up and left past a questionable piton and then up the slab toward the corner. A two-bolt anchor awaits on the wall of the giant corner.

P2: (60m, 5.6) Continue up the giant corner, with solid gear placements in base of the corner. As the pitch bends to the left, the climbing eases. Find a two-bolt anchor on top of the ledge left of the corner.

P3: (40m, 5.6) From the anchor, cross the corner gully and surmount the slab, passing four bolts. Beyond this, good cam placements are available in the deep, water-worn runnels, which lead to a Fixe chain anchor.

P4: (55m, 5.7) Cast straight up from the anchor, clipping two bolts. From there, find good cam placements in the deep runnels and keep moving until two more bolts appear just before the Fixe chain anchor. This pitch is a genuine rope-stretcher, so use runners if your placements deviate from the straight line.

P5: (55m, 5.7) Traverse up and left following a line of six bolts, with gear options between bolts 4, 5 and 6. At the sixth bolt, head straight up to a Fixe chain anchor.

P6: (55m, 5.6) Climb straight up from the anchor and look for a bolt in the obvious weakness through the roof. Some gear and another bolt protect the rest of the roof section before the climbing eases on broken slabs. Fixe chain anchor.

P7: (55m, 5.5) Clip two bolts directly above the anchor then head straight up on overlapping sections of broken slab. Two more bolts appear slightly to the right before a Fixe chain anchor on the right-hand side of the small roof.

P8: (55m, 5.6) Find small gear just above the anchor and then clip a bolt, leading to protectable broken slabs with a couple of bolts thrown in for good measure. Fixe chain anchor.

P9: (55m, 5.7) Climb straight up to a bolt then smear and edge your way up the slabs, finding a few good gear placements and three more bolts. The final 15 meters crosses low fifth-class terrain with plenty of loose rock, so be careful. Easier climbing is available in the gully to the right, but if you deviate too far, you’ll run out of rope. Besides, the direct line is more fun! Fixe chain anchor.

P10: (50m, 5.4) Continue up the left facing corner with plenty of good gear options, then slightly to the left to a Fixe chain anchor on a ledge.

P11 (60m, 5.8) Clip a bolt just above the anchor then climb the obvious left facing corner as it narrows to a crack. Plenty of good gear placements present themselves as you progress toward the Fixe chain anchor on a perfect ledge.

P12: (40m, 5.5) Continue up the widening crack system, then look left for a bolt. Continue to a Fixe chain anchor on a gravelly ledge.

P13: (35m, 5.5) Clip a bolt just above the anchor then continue up to the summit ridge, with good gear options on the left. Build a gear anchor on the summit ridge to bring up your partner.

Descent

From the summit ridge, scramble down 10m, trending to the skier’s left. Rappel from a Fixe chain anchor located just over a sharp edge. From there, rappel the route. At the top of Pitch 3 (below the long runnel pitch), make a long rappel traversing away from the corner. Find another Fixe chain anchor on a ledge and make a final, long rappel to the base of the route. The final rappels are long, so be sure to tie knots in the ends of your ropes. Due to the length of the rappels and the nature of the terrain, rock fall hazard is present on many of the rappels. Be careful when rappelling towards your partner and when pulling the ropes!

Gear

• 2x 60m ropes (be sure they are full 60-meter ropes. You will need every meter of them!)
• 6 quick draws
• 6 alpine draws
• A nut tool can be handy for digging dirt out of cracks, which often yields good gear placements.
• BD Camalots from 0.3-3”
• doubles from 0.3-0.5”
• triples from 0.75-1”

Or

• Single rack of BD Camalots from 0.3-3”
• triples from 0.75-1”
• Metolius Mastercams numbers 2,3,4 and 5 (yellow, orange, red, black)

Photos